Italy 2 - Four reasons why people hate Naples

Greg McElhatton says "Naples made me hate life." Leif Petterson says he went around looking for gems in Naples and found none. He ends his travelogue with a passionate suggestion "Don't go to Naples!" Hal Licino issues a similar advisory "Avoid Naples" but in much stronger terms.

It brings out extreme reaction from visitors. Such abhorrence for a city is unbelievable. Never before I read tonnes of reviews about a place telling you not to visit it (except in cases where the place is in a war or experiencing political instability). But, in a country like Italy, there is a city that is so hated that people say they would not visit it even if paid to do so. 

Here are four key reasons why people hate Naples so much!

1. Garbage - The foremost reason travellers dislike Naples is garbage. The locals are known to dump the garage onto the street. As you walk from street to street a glass bottle or a bag of something may just fall from the skies and land on your head. Tourists complain of hoards of trash mounted in front of buildings and houses and the constant smell that follows you around in the city. This place does not stand up to the Western standard of hygiene and sanitation. Here is an interesting article in Independent discussing just when the waste situation in Naples got bad.

2. Crime Scene - As you step out of the central train station in Naples and step onto the lanes leading up to Piazza Gabrialdi you see local and immigrant population walking around selling expensive gadgets for cheap. It makes you want to hold onto your back pack tight and run to your hotel room and hide there till its time to leave. Travel bloggers have reported being pick pocketed and robbed in the city. The danger is palpable. The threat feels real. Its no joke. Naples does feel like a really unsafe city. Besides, the smaller crimes perpetrated there is a situation of lawlessness with secret crime mafia Camorra operating in the city.

3. Neapolitan - People are said to be rude and mean in their attitude towards travelers who have reported back saying that they are not taken care of. Basically, people are said to be hostile and inhospitable.

4. Traffic - The taxi drivers drive too fast following no rules or signs and jumping the signals. You don't want to be in their cab. The traffic will never stop for a pedestrian. So you don't want to be outside of the car either. The traffic jams are so terrible that you don't want to be driving around either. Basically, you don't want to be in Naples at all.  

It is the third largest city in Italy but undeniably the most hated one in Europe. I still five special reasons for loving the city. Watch this space…it is coming soon.

Where do you go for your purchase in London if you are food fashionista?

Travel File No. 5: Borough Market

Where do you go for your purchase in London if you are food fashionista? For fashionable gourmet local and international produce - the chefs, the restaurateurs and the gourmands endorse the Borough Market.

In the heart of London, a stone's throw from London Bridge station is one of Britain's  most famous and renowned food market. It is a sprawling affair offering exciting local and exotic gourmet produce, a foodie's haven, the say, a place for anyone who cares about the quality of the food they eat. Filled with amateur cooks and professional, or those who simply just happen to love eating throng its halls filled with aromas, taste and colours. The market itself is steeped in History. Existing on the borough high street since the 13th century, it was closed down in 1755 by the parliament. But a group of local residents raised money to buy a patch of land and reopened the market. The present buildings were designed in 1851. But it was in the 1990's that the market is said to have begun its retail transformation.

Stallholders come to trade at the market from different parts of the UK.Traditional European products are also imported and sold here. Produce sold here includes fresh fruit and vegetables, fine cheeses, oils, spices and seasonings, fresh and cured meats, sea food, freshly baked bread, confectionary,  and pastries. There is also a wide variety of cooked food on sale.With 160 market businesses - farmers, bakers,  selling their produce, it is said to be Britain's answer to famous European markets like the Bocqueria in Barcelona or the Marche Bastille in Paris.

Borough Market has become a fashionable place to buy food, glamourised by the British media, chefs and movies that shopped and shot here. All this media attention has created popularity but many believe  that it is now ripping Borough Market off its uniqueness. As picture taking tourists admiring and sampling the artfully laid out of food visit in abundance, pushing the prices, quality and the market itself over to the commercial edge. However, the bourgh market trust says that it is adamant to ensure that the market does not end up like more commercialised and touristic markets in London.

Although better known as a retail market by the day operating on Thursdays to Saturdays which is probably when you will visit it, Bourough Market operates wholesale trade every night except Saturday.

For more information: azmayish.blogspot.co.uk
or follow me on twitter @azmayish

Address:8 Southwark Street London SE1 1TL 020 7407 1002
Key Links: http://www.boroughmarket.org.uk/page/about-us
Closest tranportation link: London Bridge
Key tip: Check the timings before you go!

Italy 1 - Pisa and its Tower

Pisa on your Italy itinerary

Pisa can be a quick stop when travelling from Rome to Venice. The leaning tower of Pisa is wonder of the world due to the unintentional tilt in the tower.

The Leaning tower of Pisa

The 56.70 m tall tower began leaning since its construction began in 1178. Its construction was halted twice and resumed with its construction spanning  344 years.

The tower itself was constructed as a bell tower to the cathedral of Pisa. 

The complex includes a cathedral, bell tower and baptistry. Cathedral (Duomo di Pisa) houses artworks by several prominent artists.

The bell chamber was added in 1372 in the building.

The city of Pisa

Pisa is the capital city of province of Pisa in the Tuscany region. 

Pisa was a powerful Maritime Republic in the 11th century. But its fate declined 1284 onwards after it suffered a major defeat at the hands of Genoese fleet. 

Pisa is a university town. It is said that of the 100,000 residents of Pisa, 60,000 are students.

If you are stopping for a short day trip in Pisa, you are recommended to walk your way from the station to the tower. Drop your luggage at the station lockers and look for the very hel information center.

We were provided by a map of the city and suggested routes to the tower from the information center. By walking through the city, we were able to discover Pisa, it beautiful river side, cafes, market stops, and buildings.

Frescoes on the ceiling of the archway 

The visit to tower timed. The view for the top of tower is spectacular.

View of Pisa from the Leaning Tower 

If you have more time of hands you could explore Pisa's other monuments, squares and museums.

Sources:

About Pisa: http://wikitravel.org/en/Pisa

About getting to tower for Pisa Centrale: http://www.livornonow.com/how_to_get_from_pisa_centrale_train_station_to_the_leaning_tower_of_pisa

Other posts on Italy:

Italy 2 - Four reasons why people hate Naples

Italy 3 - Five reasons why you will love Naples

Italy 4 - A peep into Positano

Italy 5: Your wedding in Italian town of Ravello?

Wales 1 - Snowdon Mountain Railways

Snowdon Mountain Railways was officially opened on 6th April 1896. Today, it is a major tourist pull attracting people keen for an experience of riding on a train to get to the highest peak in England and Wales. Here are some shots of the train against the spectacular views of the Snowdonia National park.

For train timings and prices check the official Snowdon Mountain Railways website:
http://www.snowdonrailway.co.uk/times_prices.php

Snowdon Mountain Railway station is located in Llanberis on the A4086

T
First train leaves Llanberis at 09.00 am with later trains running at frequent intervals subject to customer demand. 

During peak time the train could run at half hourly frequency.

The train travels 4.7 miles. 

A return ticket allows for an approximate 30 minute stop at the summit before returning on the same train.

Hafod Eryri is the Visitor Centre at the Summit. The centre has a refreshment area offering a selection of snacks and drinks

Adult return fare is ￡25 from Llanberis to Summit

The trains run from May to October

The train is a single track line and brings back the old world feel

Photo Illustration: Sokullu Mehmet Pasha Mosque in Istanbul

My next door Mosque which was built in 1562. This is the view from the terrace of the building I stayed in. The view from the bedroom window is magnificent.

About the mosque: "Constructed on a steep slope in Sultanahmet, Sokollu Mosque is another fine remnant from master Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. The Mosque was dedicated to Esma Sultan, the daughter of Selim II and wife of Grand Vizier Sokollu Mehmed Pasha, of whom the official name was granted to."

Breakfast (Kahvalti) in Istanbul

Breakfast meal in Turkey is called Kahvalti which means 'before coffee' in Turkish. Our host at Sokullu Mehmet Pasha apartments offered us a lavish breakfast meal. We were served three types of cheeses, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggs, apples, oranges, simit, bread, orange juice, Turkish tea, olives, butter and honey.

Istanbul Food I - 15 dishes and drinks I tried on Day 1

How much food can you pack in a day? Here is all that I was able to get a taste of on my first day in Istanbul with two of my friends. 

1. Islak Hamburger (Wet Burger) - It is wet burger with a small beef/lamb patty inside it. It is available in Taksim Square at many spots. Look for a case where you find steaming small burgers stacked in a small case. It can be bought for 2 Turkish Lira.

Called Wet burger, Islak hamburger is a small, moist burger with beef and lamb patty



Steaming case - Small case to put in Islak hamburgers to keep them hot and moist

2. Simit - It is a bagel covered with sesame seeds. 
3. Salep - The drink was served during the Ottoman rein. It is made out of roots of orchids. Can be bought for 3 Lira.

A poster on the Salep selling cart displaying key ingredients of the drink.



Special metal dispenser with fire underneath to keep the drink hot.



Cinnamon dusted cup of Sahlep/Salep

4. Iskender Kebabs - thinly cut lamb like doner kebab and some pita bread pieces soaked in tomato sauce with butter and yogurt. The dish is named after the person who invented it.

Iskender Kebab, Chicken Seekh and Turkish bread

5. Chicken Pide - it is a variety of Turkish Pizza. Very delicious but different from Lahmacun, they say in terms of shape and thickness. 

Bits of Chicken Pide

6. Baklava - yes, I managed to eat some Baklava but my friend who ordered the dish lapped it all up. May I daresay that whose baklava is it anyway is won by Turkey. Turkish Baklava is better than Greek. 

Pistachio baklava and cappuccino at a cafe in Taksim Square 

7. Mezze - Yummy cold mezze gave me immense variety on one plate. On the house Lavash bread provided to me made me order a plate of mezze with 8 different preparations including chilli paste, egg plant salad, garlic yogurt, red peppers, mushrooms, hummus, and a couple of other things. This was for about 28 Lira. Turkish hummus was grainier than hummus I have had so far.

Hummus and Bread



Plate of Cold Mezze

8. Tavuk Gogsu - No jokes. This is really a dessert with shredded chicken breast. You take a bite and after a few seconds you can feel the chicken in your mouth. Yes, I ate it. No, I didn't finish it. Definitely will not order it again. 

Chicken Dessert - Tavuk Gogsu

9. Tavuk Sultan Hurrem - I could not find this dish anywhere on my return. This was a dish with cheese in tomoato sauce with lots of chicken pieces and mushroom and red peppers bubbling in a clay pot. Let me know if you recodnize it and know what it is.

Bubbling dish in tomato sauce cooked in clay pot

10. Turkish Tea - It is a bitter tea served without milk in a small glass

11. Turkish Coffee - It is bitter, sweet drink with ground coffee remaining at the end.

12. Turkish rice - Boiled rice with trace of vermicelli. It tastes very rich!

13. Pomegranate Juice - Available for 5 Lira in Sultanahmet outside the major attractions, this is a very refreshing drink. The vendors have a special machine to extract the juice to avoid the rigour of peeling and removing seeds.

Vendors in Istanbul have a special machine to extract the juice to avoid the rigor of peeling and removing seeds.

14. Chicken Seekh kebab - Spicier than other kebabs I have had.
15. Lavash - It is a giant blotted thin bread on display in many restaurants. A restaurant owner where we walked for a coffee offered it on house when I asked about it! It was lovely crispy and thin. He served it with oil and a lemon dressing.

Needless to say my stomach is like an acid factory reminding me of my Amritsar trip but I am getting ready for tomorrow.

15 things I will to eat in Istanbul

I have arrived into Istanbul and settled in a comfortable one bed apartment in Sultanahmet House. I am planning the travel itinerary and alongside I have put together a list of 15 must eats in Istanbul that I will try out:

1. Kebabs - this is the land of Kebabs - Doner, Kofte, Shawarma, lamb chops- the list is long and my appetite is huge
2. Simit - a snack between doughnut and pretzel
3. Wet burger - yes, a burger filled with meat and then wet in garlic tomato sauce...heading tomorrow night to Taksim square for a bite into this one
4. Firin Sutlac - Oven baked rice pudding sounds like Indian kheer. Let's see what they got.
5. Hummus - this tahini chick pea delight is alchemy. I have spent days dipping my carrots into it for lunch. I feel fortunate to come to a land where it is a traditional and not exotic food. 
6. Lahmacun - referred to as Turkish pizza, it is flat bread with minced meat
7. Pilav rice - Pulao is a big part of Indian cuisine. I want to eat Pilav in Istanbul to compare it to the Indian variety I was brought up on
8. Aubergine mezze- Aubergine is much disliked in India but egg plant seems to be to Middle East what potatoes are to British isles. I am waiting to dip my breads into smoked egg plant salads, egg plant with yogurt, fried egg plant! 
9. Baklava - Come on, who am I kidding! That is one of the key reasons for going to Istanbul - to have some fresh Baklava. It is a pastry dessert. 
10. Tea: They say, tea is inescapable in Istanbul and I am going to plunge right into its arms! Prices look affordable so between much walking small tea stops will be perfect!
11. Tavuk Gogsu - milk pudding with chicken breast. (To be honest, I will not seek it out but if it comes my way, I will order it! )
12. Turkish coffee - Very bitter and very sweet coffee. This will mark the perfect end to all my great meals
13. Raki - Local Alcohol. I do not hope to return from Turkey without trying Raki
14. Knick knacks - there is a lot to pick on the stalls and vendors on the streets - Pomegrante juice, Fried Chestnuts, ayran etc. 
15. Stuffed mussels: Classified as street food, rice stuffed mussels is an Istanbul treat 

I will be posting soon what I think of about these dishes. Time to catch up on sleep.

Here is an awesome food blog with great descriptions and pictures of Istanbul food. Visit it for absolute delight.  

http://foodistanbul.blogspot.co.uk/p/yum-yum-page.html

Five reason I am so excited to go to Istanbul!

I read about it in history books - Constantinople - the capital city of three empires - A gem that glitters on the body of world history. The name itself has kick in its sound - Is-tan-bul, the land where East and West, Europe and Asia visibly meet. But honestly, Turkey never figured in the top five on my must visit list. But with less than 24 hours to my flight to Istanbul. I am getting super excited! Here is why:

• The weather - From wet rainy, cold chilly London at 10 degrees, Istanbul will be a delightful 18 degrees, 10 degrees warmer for the last gasp of newness in. 
• The culture - Both European and Asian cultures come mix here. I am looking forward to be in the milieu and witness what it feels to be in midst of this confluence of this culture.
• Cheap Prices - I found a room at £13 per night per person. I am hoping all the awesome museum visits, travel, food -kebabs, tea, baklava will come in great quantities for cheap. 
• History - Istanbul is not just nestled in between two continents, by the sea of Marmara, but its history dates back to the 660 BC
• Orhan Pamuk - There is something about Orhan Pamuk's works that make you feel that you are entering into the veins of Istanbul.  It makes the city, its streets, its landmarks, its people - real, something that makes I feel will help me go beyond the superficiality of a two day tourist. So unsuspectingly, Orhan Pamuk's "Museum of innocence" made me want to travel to the grand, historical city of Istanbul.

After I get there, Here are five things I will definitely do in Istanbul.

Five things I will definitely do in Istanbul

The timeless city, the treasure trove history, the bridge between East and West, the 'Nea Roma' ("the new Rome") of the Romans, the capital city of the Ottoman and the Byzantine empires and the end of the silk road - it is Istanbul! I have more than one reasons to be excited and here is my quick five pointer to do list for my short two day visit -

1. Visit the must visits - It would be blasphemy in the religion of travel, wouldn't it be to return from the timeless city of Istanbul without paying visits to the remarkable buildings of Istanbul: Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Topinaki Palace. Of course, I have scheduled 3 hours to walk around the Archaeological museum to dive into the history of the city! 
2. Cruise in Bosphorus - also called Istanbul strait, it is a natural water body 32 km long which connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara marking the separation of the two continents - Asia and Europe. There seem to be many options for cruise on the strait -  cheap 2 hour government run ferries or half day tours or night cruise with food and entertainment. Again, I will see what it is worth after getting on ground but as of now all I want is glide in peace watching Istanbul glide away. 
3. Food, Food &; Food - After long intense day of walking and exploring that I have planned, what one relishes is a hot cup of tea. I will dig in with my spoons and hands and explore the culinary tradition of the city. I have a list of  15 food items I want to eat in Istanbul. I may as well walk along in one of the many food tours in Istanbul that I have found in my research so far. 
4. Watch the whirling dervish - Would I pay a touristic profit based organization to watch a religious, spiritual ceremony is a big question for me? Maybe not. It would make me feel really small inside almost like buying Rumi for money because money is what I have. I hope to find a religious organization that allows visitors to watch the religious ceremony for a small donation. I am hoping to get some cue when I land in Istanbul and talk to a few locals. 
5. Many other joys of Istanbul: List is long and could I choose one additional to fill in a blank? I want to spend an evening Taksim Square, read Orhan Pamuk on a Sunday morning with tea, walk on Galata Bridge and and climb Galata tower for the wonderful view of Istanbul.

"If one had but a single glance to give the world, one should gaze on Istanbul."

-Alphonse de Lamartine